Imagine leaving behind the grind of London’s corporate world, complete with its packed tube rides and relentless meetings, for the serenity of a Berkshire vineyard. That’s precisely what Mark Darley, founder of All Angels, did after over three decades in law. Swapping legal briefs for soil samples, Mark now leads a sparkling wine brand that balances meticulous craftsmanship with an ethos of sustainability and respect for nature.

All Angels stands out for its single-vintage English sparkling wines, aged for a minimum of six years on lees—a time-intensive approach that prioritizes finesse over everything else. But what truly defines this brand is Mark’s dedication to the land and its ecosystem, ensuring the legacy of English sparkling wine is as green as it is golden.

In a lighthearted conversation, Mark shared his journey, philosophies, and insights into the ever-evolving world of English sparkling wine.

Edited excerpts from the interview.

What was it like transitioning from a high-profile career in law to the world of winemaking?

It certainly took some adjustment, especially since I announced my retirement just before Covid struck. The biggest challenge? Learning to let go of control. In law, you manage pressures with dialogue or delegation. In wine, Mother Nature is the boss! It probably took me almost two years to come to terms with the fact that we can’t control the weather and the natural world. The reality is that had I not already had the vineyards, I would probably still be in the City and I was thoroughly worn out. I was never going to be a person who could sit still during retirement, so producing and selling wine was the perfect activity. And let’s be honest, after years of city life, swapping my long tube commutes for a three-minute stroll to the vineyard (with three dogs in tow) has been a breath of fresh air—literally!

What do you think makes English Sparkling Wine unique, particularly for All Angels?

I would say, the flavours and the variety of flavours in English Sparkling Wines made in the Traditional Method. I personally find most Champagne a little dull in character, while English sparkling wines often have a livelier character. All Angels is pretty unique even among English Sparkling Wines as we age our Classic Cuvées and Blanc des blancs for a minimum of six years on lees—it makes no economic sense, which is why very few people adopt this approach—but it makes for a much finer wine, smoother and more balanced combining the fruit-forward primary flavours with the subtle secondary flavours of toasty brioche. 

Are there qualities in English terroir that you feel are underappreciated globally?

Absolutely! English terroir is incredibly diverse. Many think it’s all about chalky soils, but the truth is, if you pick the right grape variety and clone for the soil we have such an advantage and can produce stunning wines from grapes little used elsewhere. And because our industry is still young, we have the freedom to experiment without being bound by tradition.

The market for English sparkling wine is growing fast. How does All Angels distinguish itself in this competitive landscape?

Quality before Volume, Patience before Revenue! All Angels is not a volume producer and has no aspiration to be one. To give an example, this year we discarded all of the Chardonnay from one of our vineyards – if we were a volume producer we might have used it – but we are not. We’ve built a reputation for producing the best and we are not going to betray the trust our customers have in us by producing wine of subpar quality. As Matthew Jukes once said: “The rare ingredient they include at All Angels is patience.” The land at All Angels also has an incredible nine centuries of history and has been witness to many events that have moulded the story of England itself but there is too much to say about that here!

Image Credits: Mark Darley, All Angels-Enborne Vineyard Ltd.

Sustainability is central to All Angels. How do you balance environmental commitment with production?

At All Angels we believe that we have a duty not just to maintain the ecosystem but to improve it and make it a habitable area where nature can thrive.  Unfortunately, some of the things we do may not be beneficial for the natural world, like weed control and bird netting, but we try to compensate by helping in other ways, such as bat boxes and using worm “tea” to increase the microbes in the soil. And we are succeeding; we have a thriving wildlife with the occasional rabbit, fox, badger and otter to eight different species of bat including two extremely rare species.

Could you discuss some of the sustainable practices you’ve implemented and what impact you’ve observed?

Within the vineyards themselves, we have planted cover crops and are about to trial herbal lays. We use organic (not animal) matter compost as well as spray the vines with worm tea for microbe enhancement.  The biggest challenge is weed control and for that we mechanically weed although I think the jury is out as to whether we have to change that because of the soil compaction. Bordering the vineyards, we have planted a wildflower meadow, put in ponds to attract more wetland wildlife, planted trees from oak to apple and next year aim to add wild bee houses for solitary bees. I often go out at night with a pair of thermal binoculars and it is so satisfying to see the amount of wildlife: the bats make it look like the M25!

What new techniques or innovations are you exploring to enhance the quality of your wines further?

To produce great wines, you need great grapes so most of our current focus is on producing better and better grapes. That means better frost protection, for which we use infra-red tubing and I think there are only half a dozen producers in England who do so. And then there is also optimal canopy management and ruthless green harvesting. It can be saddening to discard perfectly healthy grapes but that is the only way to concentrate the nutrition in the remaining grapes and at the same time take some of the stress off the vines. We are also looking at more drone technology and more effective weed control methods. 

How do you view climate change’s impact on English wine production?

I prefer to call it climate “chaos.” It’s opened doors as in we are now able to grow grapes from which we can produce world beating wines. That will only continue and more regions will become viable for planting vineyards and producing quality still red wines. But we run the risk of severe frosts at bud-burst, cold and wet at critical stages such as flowering and far more rain than ever before leading to real challenges from mildew as well as difficult ripening conditions. 2024 has been especially tough with lower sunlight hours and higher rainfall.

Is there a particular wine from All Angels that holds special meaning for you?

That’s like asking me to choose my favourite Labrador—not favourite child as that would be easy!! But if I had to pick, it’d be our Classic Cuvée 2014 Long Aged on Lees—a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 28% Pinot Noir, 11% Pinot Meunier and 11% Pinot Gris and was aged on lees for seven years.. It’s my go-to and has earned many accolades over the years. But we’re also working on releasing another wine, which we simply refer to as Project Elegy for now—a Blanc de Blanc blend of the best Chardonnay grapes from one of our vineyards.  It is a long term project so probably won’t be released for another nine years. Heaven can Wait.

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What advice would you give to aspiring English sparkling wine producers?

Don’t expect to make money. This is a generational effort, not a quick-return business. You may get to the point where your revenues cover your running costs but you will be lucky to recover the significant capital investment in your lifetime. 

Secondly, Don’t plant unless you have the best land. Don’t necessarily stick to the traditional grape varieties (although we have, largely)—some of the Piwis produce lovely wines and are resilient to variable weather and disease. Try to establish where you are going to sell your wine at an early stage and don’t think you can just show it and it will be bought. 

And most importantly, stick to your principles. All Angels has built up a very loyal following and demand is immense but that is because we will not compromise on quality under any circumstances – we would sooner not produce than disappoint by producing a wine that is not of the very highest quality.

Header image sourced from Mark Darley.

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