We talked to Arnaud Bardary MS, group head sommelier at Black Sheep Restaurants, about how he goes about creating the right wine list for its group of Hong Kong restaurants as well as offering his advice on what he thinks it takes to be a leading sommelier and wine buyer.

How did you get into the drinks industry and decide you wanted to be a sommelier?

Being the fifth generation of the family working in the restaurant business, I was exposed to the food and beverage industry at a very young age. I can even remember climbing onto a chair to serve beers at the bar. I was no more than 10 years old.  

When studying hospitality, I had the chance to learn about wine, and the more I learned the more I wanted to know. An internship in England gave me the chance to discover and explore wines from all over the world so I decided to return to the UK after my studies. 

My first job was as a commis sommelier, but I quickly moved to sommelier and assistant head sommelier with the help of a few important people from the industry who guided me through my path, career, and finally all the exams. 

Arnaud Bardary, Master Sommelier / Group Head Sommelier at Black Sheep

How did you get your current role?

I passed my Master Sommelier diploma in 2015 and had the chance to come to Hong Kong to be part of Black Sheep Restaurants Group where I now lead a team of 14 sommeliers over 30 venues. 

What is involved in your current role and your main tasks? 

Pretty much everything related to the department. Buying, importing, training, recruiting, pricing, stock control, and of course the service. But also, and this is where I take the most pleasure, I am responsible for developing my teammates to follow the best career path they can.

If you were given a restaurant to fix their wine program and grow wine sales where would you start and what steps would you take?

This is a tricky question. It would depend on where it needs to be fixed. The first thing to do would be to understand the market, philosophy of the restaurant, the guests and its surrounding area. 

Second, I would check the listings, pricing, the material used, and all collaterals the department is using. I would also look at the team members, and get to understand their likes, their goals and what they are looking to achieve. I would look at the tools we already have that might be used better before implementing others. 

Finally, I would like to link the dots between all the above details to make them work at their best.  

I would ask how many wine references do they want, how many wines by the glass, what average spend they would expect (including food), and then look at the menu, the philosophy, nature and style of restaurant it is. It is also important to look at the quality and size of the wine storage available and all the elements that will be used for running the overall department.

What do you most look for and want from wine suppliers to help drive sales?

I usually prefer to receive all the offers that are sent. Either we’ll use them or not. I like to work with suppliers who understand the needs of the restaurants. For example, receiving offers of fine wines from Bordeaux in a Sicilian and fish-orientated venue doesn’t make much sense. 

But above all else I am looking for a good, friendly and professional relationship.

Black Sheep Restaurant

Can you think of any good examples of wine partnerships with suppliers and wines you have listed as a result? What was it about those wines that stood out?

Many actually. Sourcing wines from specific producers that are not represented in their portfolio. Large formats from existing estates are also very useful.

What does success look like for you from a wine program or wine list?

It’s hard to give a precise example, but overall building a wine list that matches a concept and all the types of clientele that use it is the first step. Adding some special and unique wines, hidden gems, small wineries that deserved to be known better are always good additions to present. I don’t think a wine list needs to be 100 pages long, but is easy to read instead. More than anything you need a wine team that is willing and able to speak about the wines on the list with knowledge and passion and you need to look after your bottom line.

How have you devised the wine list and wine programme at your venue - what are the key factors about the list that help the bottom line? 

A well-presented wine list that is easy to read for the guests and gives them the confidence to buy the wines they want is what I am looking to create. I also usually like to present the best value for money wines on the list that are less well known. Being able to suggest rarer grape varieties such as Clairette, Mencia and Sylvaner, rather than Sauvignon Blanc or Merlot.

I also like to have a wine or two at a higher price point. Not everyone has the same understanding and knowledge about wine but it also gives those that do know their wine an opportunity to open a good bottle to enjoy or for a celebration. As well has having wines that are similar to what people usually drink at home.

What are the key four things you focus on to be good in your role?

1. People. Be it recruiting, training, guiding, and developing our teams. We have now 14 sommeliers in Black Sheep Restaurants Group and we work as a team rather than as individuals.

2. Good communications and team spirit. 

3. Taking part in the service and fully understanding the dynamic and flow of how the restaurant work is essential if you want to create a memorable experience for your guests. 

4. Buying wine carefully and at the best price helps you build a well-balanced wine list.

What do you think sommeliers spend too much of their time on which is not that important?

I don’t think there is anything that is not important. Every detail matters.

Arnaud Bardary

What are the criteria you look for in a wine when deciding whether to include it in your wine program or not? 

First, does the wine fit the concept of the restaurant and can it be sold? I love many wines but can’t and won’t list them if they are not suitable for my restaurant’s needs. Then I look at the price, the quality, and the supplier that is representing the wine. They all have to be right to go on the list.

Adding wines just for the purpose of having a large wine list does not make sense to me. I would avoid too many references from the same area, same producer and same price.

The whole team will taste every wine we list. It is important to know and like what you offer.

What do you see as being the key skills and talents needed to be a good sommelier?

Attitude and passion are the most important. You can develop your skills but it is hard to change the person you are. 

* You can find out more about Black Sheep restaurant group here.